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Just got back from catching some tasty waves at Pleasure Point: my very first time surfing! For more than a year and a half I've lived here, but I've still felt more like a visitor or an observer or someone just passing through but not taking the time to experience and embrace the true nature of Santa Cruz. To really live somewhere one must learn the way of the land (or in this case, the way of the ocean). Pleasure Point has some of the smallest waves around here, which is why it's good for beginners, but it hooked me enough to want to go back. Maybe even to buy a surf board soon. I need to build up a lot more upper body strength to stay out there for longer without getting tired, but I'm told that I did surprisingly well for my first time. I managed to stand up a couple times, but only for a few seconds.

Maybe it was my imagination, but it seemed like this smoking hot blond chick(*) with a bright pink surfboard was sort of flirting with me. She kept swimming near, smiling, and then surfing past me. But I felt pretty ineffectual not being able to get up on my board and balance like she could. She tried to talk to me once, but I didn't know what to say and I felt like a floating idiot so I just said hi.

While we were changing back by the car, we ran into a guy who was the most stereotyped over-the-top california surfer dude I've ever met. We talked to him for a while but every other word out of his mouth was something along the lines of "whoa... shia, bro like... totally, dude... right on man, alriiight...yeah" with a heavy "surfer" accent (I hadn't realized this before, but the surfer accent is quite distinct from the stoner accent even though their vocabularies have a lot in common). He said he's been surfing since he was 16, but was teaching his girl how to surf (which explained why he was at this beach and not one of the ones with the 10-15 foot waves). I wonder if he realizes we were imitating him in the car all the way back!

My whole face is pretty sunburnt. And my arms are going to be sore tomorrow. But it was well worth it. My 2-week rule is holding strong! Now I just need to write three weeks worth of emag solutions by Monday, and I won't feel guilty about taking Saturday morning off.

(*) I don't use this word to describe women very often, but given the context I'd say it's more than appropriate!


( 3 comments — Leave a comment )
Apr. 17th, 2005 04:22 pm (UTC)
Surfing sounds awesome. Nice story.
Apr. 18th, 2005 04:14 pm (UTC)

you're a victim now too.
Apr. 20th, 2005 03:24 am (UTC)
I think I was a victim long before I moved here... good album, though!
( 3 comments — Leave a comment )


domino plural

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